Frequently Asked Questions
Over the years the Scottish Fivers have amassed a large amount of knoweldge on the MX5. Here you will find answes to the most commonly asked questions. If you cannot find the answer here the please go to the forum section an ask your question where hopefully someone wil be able to answer your question
Technical
Service
Tech PDF showing the procedure for modification to Drain Holes. The modified drain tube TSB does apply to the UK.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/miata/bulletin/09-021-09-2104c.pdf
If you live or park on a hill it is advisable, if possible to park nose down.
| Attachment | Size |
|---|---|
| MK-3 Drain Holes.doc | 283.5 KB |
Although this first link is for Miatas, please check with your dealer first, not all US Bulletins apply to Mazda UK.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/pages.php?pageid=10
| Attachment | Size |
|---|---|
| Torque settings for Mk1 and Mk2.doc | 45.5 KB |
Front suspension:
upper control arm:
Long bolt: 87-101 ft/lbs
upper ball joint castllated nut: 31-44 ft/lbs
Strut assembly:
Shock piston rod upper nut: 22-27 ft/lbs
Shock Lower mounting bolt: 54-68 ft./lbs.
Upper shock tower mount nuts: 22-26 ft./lbs.
Lower control arm:
camber alignment bolts: 69-83 ft/lbs
lower ball joint bolt (vertical): 54-68 ft/lbs
lower ball joint bolt (horizontal): 54-68 ft/lbs
lower ball joint castellated nut: 45-57 ft/lbs
Steering rack:
outer tie rod castellated nut: 22-31 ft/lbs
clamp mount bolts: 34-43 ft/lbs
pipe unions: 23-35 ft/lbs
pressure pipe support bracket: 14-19 ft/lbs
column clamp bolt 14-19 ft/lbs
Steering pump:
pressure union 24-34 ft/lbs
pipe support bracket 13-19 ft/lbs
upper/lower mounting bolts 27-39 ft/lbs
adjuster block nut 14-18 ft/lbs
Wheels:
65-86 ft/lbs
Rear suspension:
upper control arm:
inner bolts: 34-49 ft/lbs
outer bolt: 34-49 ft/lbs
Lower control arm:
Camber alignment bolts: 54-70 ft/lbs
Outer bolt: 47-54 ft/lbs
Strut assembly:
Shock piston rod upper nut: 23-34 ft/lbs
Shock Lower mounting bolt: 54-68 ft/lbs
Upper shock tower mount nuts: 22-26 ft/lbs
Sway bar:
Sway bar link bolts: 27-39 ft/lbs
Clamp mount bolts: 14-20 ft/lbs
Brakes:
bracket/spindle bolts: 36-51 ft/lbs
front bracket/caliper bolts: 58-65 ft/lbs
rear bracket/caliper bolts: 25-29 ft/lbs
f/r banjo bolts: 16-22 ft/lbs
rear adjuster plug bolt: 9-12 ft/lbs
rear parking brake cable locknut: 12-17 ft/lbs
Other:
Valve cover bolts: 43-78 INCH/POUNDS
Camshaft cap bolts: 100-125 INCH/POUNDS
Transmission fill plug 19-28 ft/lbs
Transmission drain plug 29-43 ft/lbs
Diff drain/fill plugs 29-39 ft/lbs
Transmission
Guide by Douglas Payne.
Well team, thanks for the help. I changed the hub today in under an hour. Simple really.
I love it when I find guides online with pictures showing what to expect so today I made my own.
Here's a wee guide:
Jacking the car up, I have discovered its easy to drive the car onto some planks to get the front high enough to hoik a trolley jack under the front subframe.
Then loosen the wheelnuts and jack the car up.
Take the wheelnuts and the wheel off:
Here's the nice new shiny hub assembly:
Remove the hub nut cover. I used an old, retired wood chisel which I hammered in to get it started, then a dirty big screwdriver to lever it off.
The hub nut has a dent in to stop it coming undone:
With gratuitous use of a bench grinder I made myself a square drift to hammer into the channel to undo the dent.
After undoing the dent, I took the centre cap out of the wheel and then put the wheel back on to the hub so I could apply several gruntsworth of torque to undo the nut safely.
I took the wheel off again then removed the whole caliper and plopped it over on the lower wishbone where it was quite happy to sit quietly. This lets you take the brake disc off.
After that is just a matter of undoing the hub nut and the hub comes free. I forgot to take a pic of the stub axle, but I made an effort to clean it up nice ready for the new bearings.
Here's a pic of shiny new vs dirty old. Note that the new assembly from MX5Parts came with a new nut. Eagle eyed readers will be able to tell that the new nut is 27mm whereas the old nut is 29mm.
Another new vs old:
I lovingly torqued up the new nut to FT (~150lbs) and smacked a dent into it to stop it coming undone:
"Reassembly is the reverse of removal". Remember to re fit the hub nut cap and centre cap for the wheel.
Don't try to lower the car without using the blocks under the wheels, the jack is too fat to be removed from under the car without them. 
I took the car for a drive, its much quieter now. Hurrah!
Then I cleaned up the old hub a bit just to see what it was like. Any opinions on whether the bearing is easily pressable?
Kind regards,
Skinnydoug.
